Not All Vitamin C Serums Penetrate the Same - Summary - MDSpire
Commentary & Perspectives

Not All Vitamin C Serums Penetrate the Same

Skin penetration data reveals a wide gap between popular formulations

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A study published in the Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology reveals that tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD) leads to significantly increased penetration of vitamin C into synthetic skin compared to L-ascorbic acid (AA) and sodium ascorbate (SA). Specifically, THD showed up to 38 times greater absorption after 72 hours. The authors suggest that THD’s lipophilic nature enhances its ability to cross the skin barrier effectively, although discrepancies in formulation could also contribute. However, clinical outcomes remain unassessed in the study, leaving questions about the real-world implications.

Original Source(s)

Not All Vitamin C Serums Penetrate the Same

  • by Kerri Miller

  • April 16, 2026

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